Roast goose is an archetypal Cantonese staple in Hong Kong – and for a good reason. We argue that this siu mei (meats roasted on spits over a fire) is the king of the Hong Kong barbecue repertoire. Done correctly, it’s a tantalising tango of taste and texture. It boasts light, crisp skin, rich, melty fat and tender, juicy meat. These are all balanced by a sweet and slightly acidic plum sauce. Unfortunately, finding roast goose – let alone good roast goose – in Singapore is a challenge in itself. Restaurants here have been banned from importing and cooking geese from Southern China to avoid avian flu outbreaks. Your next best bet to quell those roast goose ravings: Hong Kong.
Although initially a favourite amongst greasy spoons, Hong Kong roast goose has also found itself in established eateries across the city. When ordering roost goose, you usually get different portions. Some opt for a quarter, a half, or if you really have the stomach for it, a whole goose. Regardless, it’s best paired with rice or rice noodles.
In Hong Kong, there are countless places that offer the heritage dish, but only a handful can claim to be the creme de la creme. There’s even a heated debate about whether the one Michelin-starred Yat Lok or Kam’s is the best. Plump, juicy and tender, and served with crisp skin that snap ever so delicately with every bite, these establishments know just how to get you hooked. The only way to find out which is the absolute best, is to try them all out for yourself.
Whether you’re looking for a casual bite, speedy takeout, or a proper sit-down affair, find your next favourite spot at one of the following acclaimed Hong Kong roast goose joints.
Goose connoisseurs will still look back fondly on Yat Lok’s original restaurant in Tai Po, which arguably served the city’s singular perfect goose. It earned this humble restaurant a Michelin star and was further propelled to stardom with praises sung by none other than Anthony Bourdain. Operated by the Chu family since 1957 and closed in 2018, the only way to get your Yat Lok fix these days is at their Central branch, which opened in 2011. It’s an unassuming eatery wedged between a stationery store and a longtime construction site on Stanley Street.
Their roast goose boasts glistening, crisp skin and sweet, tender meat that is flavourful but never too gamey. Although you may be sitting elbow to elbow during lunch hours, a visit to this generations-old family-run diner is well worth the minor inconvenience. Try their most frequently ordered dish of goose drumstick over noodle soup, where the hot, light broth cuts through the fattiness of the goose for a balanced and satisfying meal.
Yung Kee was established in 1942 and is arguably the most famous roast goose eateries in Hong Kong — its longstanding address on Wellington Street has become something of an institution for sophisticated Cantonese fare. The geese are smoked in charcoal ovens, giving the tender and juicy meat a signature fragrance and char. While the meat is prioritised at Yung Kee, the skin is admittedly slightly less crispy than its competitors. The accompanying plum sauce leans somewhat more towards acidic as opposed to sweet. Aside from roast goose, other noteworthy highlights at Yung Kee include their century egg, and soya beans marinated in their iconic plum sauce.
Kam’s was founded by the grandson of one of the Yung Kee originators and has certainly paved its own path in Hong Kong’s roast goose royalty. Although Kam’s Roast Goose is a relatively new contender established in 2014, it quickly grew a cult following and was awarded a Michelin star within four months of opening. The geese are roasted in a gas oven as opposed to traditional charcoal, but the texture and taste are not at all compromised. It retains for the most part that classic, sought-after flavour even with newer methods. Similar to Yung Kee, the skin is slightly less crisp as the tender and juicy meat takes centre stage. However, unlike Yung Kee, the plum sauce is slightly sweeter and fruitier with less of an acidic tang.
Ho Lee Fook is known for its refined execution of modern Chinese cuisine fused with Western elements, and its roast goose is no exception. Award-winning chef ArChan Chan describes his take on roast goose as an ‘adaptation’ of the typical Cantonese style. The goose is first marinated in brine brimming with spices including star anise, cloves, peppercorns, ginger and cassia buds, before being glazed with vinegar and sugar and left to dry overnight. It is then roasted in two sessions, broken up by a 30-minute rest. The resulting roast goose is succulent and juicy with crisp skin, the meat imbued with a host of fragrant spices that add to the complex flavour profile without overwhelming the taste buds.
Yue Kee is known for their smoky and aromatic geese, roasted in charcoal ovens to smoky, crispy perfection. Third-generation owner Jason Ng uses birds from their own farm in Guangdong, insisting that the black-maned geese variety provides a more meaty and fresh taste. The cooking process is also rather specific and involves filling the bird with air to separate the skin from the meat, allowing the fat to render off to create an even juicier, flavourful result. Although Yue Kee is a little out of the way up in the northwestern New Territories and may be harder to find for out-of-towners, it’s certainly a worthwhile stop and a must-try for those hunting to sample the perfect Hong Kong roast goose!
Joy Hing has stood the test of time as an expert in roast meats in Hong Kong, even dating back to the late Qing dynasty, when it claims to be the first Cantonese char siu (Chinese barbecue pork) store in Guangdong. Not including a temporary closure during the war, Joy Hing has served their impeccable roast meats for over a hundred years using traditional roasting techniques. Even its oven dates back to the pre-WWII era. Aside from roast goose, those also looking to sample a selection of their famed roast meats should add on the ‘Three-Treasure Rice,’ a combination of their roast duck, roast chicken and, char siu served atop a bed of steamed white rice.
Sham Tseng Chan Kee is the perfect example of a no-frills Hong Kong eatery with tight elbow-to-elbow seating in a minimally furnished, plasticky space. But locals and tourists don’t flock to Sham Tseng Chan Kee for the décor or ambience – they come for the roast goose. Although Chan Kee was founded in 1949, they only began selling roast goose in 1978 upon noticing the success of their neighbour, Yue Kee. With the fierce competition to steer them on track, Chan Kee quickly and successfully made a name for themselves with their roast goose. The bronzed, crispy skin combined with succulent and juicy meat has rendered them experts of this Cantonese classic and placed them — and Sham Tseng district — on the roast goose map, irrespective of their neighbours.
The geese at Duddell’s are sourced from Foshan, with specially selected 90-day-old female geese that undergo a two-day marination process before being air-dried. This method enables the geese to retain flavourful and juicy meat whilst accompanied by crispy, golden skin. The birds are freshly roasted for lunch and dinner, served with a homemade plum sauce that features aromatic Chinese rose wine.
Leaving the city but haven’t had time to sample this classic Hong Kong delicacy? Worry not, for Duddell’s airport branch serves up its roast goose with travel-friendly, leak-proof packaging to take your precious cargo through the flight and beyond. Don’t forget to pick up a jar of their divine homemade X.O. sauce, the classic Cantonese condiment that pairs well with just about anything including roast goose.
Eating roast goose after (or before) bowling might not be in your list but it seems like the right thing to do. Whether you’re visiting South China Athletic Association for its bowling alley or its famous roast goose restaurant, the two go hand in hand. Kamcentre Roast Goose takes pride in promoting traditional Chinese siu mei not only to the general public but also to the younger generation. And because of that, you can find an array of different roast goose dishes here. From plum goose to sliced skin goose, there’s plenty to choose from and we won’t be surprised if you crave for more. Roast goose aside, you should also try the suckling pig or homemade sausage.
Image credit: @cashiu_nutz/Instagram
written by.
Carina Fischer
Carina is a writer, photographer and content creator, curious about pushing the boundaries between art, photography and fashion, all the while considering the importance of environmental sustainability, ethics and inclusion. When she’s not madly researching her latest piece, she is strolling through an art gallery or scouring the streets for the best new eats. See more of her work at www.carina-fischer.com.
